Monday, March 26, 2012

Lake Titicaca & Isla del Sol

Lake Titicaca doesn´t just have a hilarious name.  It is the largest high-altitude lake in the world.

The lake straddles Bolivia and Peru and has a surface area of 3,232 square miles - about three times the size of Luxembourg.  It is also at least three times more interesting than Luxembourg.  One of the many islands that pierces its surface is Isla del Sol (Island of the sun), where the Incas believed the sun was born.






I arrived at the town of Copacabana (not the beach town in Brazil), perched on the shore of the lake.









The journey there would have been routine, had we not crossed a small lake.  At this point we had to exit the bus and take a small boat, while our bus was transported on another boat.  We all wondered why we couldn´t just stay in the bus - until we saw the vessel it was transported on.





Anyway, the lake is HUGE!  It is so big that from the shore you can´t see anything other than water on the horizon - it feels like being by the sea.  Apparently it takes 12 hours to cross it by boat.





I´d arrived with Joel and Annemarie - who I´d bumped into again in La Paz.  We took a boat ride to a ´traditional´ floating island.  These floating islands are made from the reeds that grow on the shores of the lake and were created by the Uros people, a tribe of fisherman.  The main purpose of the islands was to isolate themselves from the more aggressive Inca and Aymara tribes who were on the warpath at the time.  You can probably tell from my use of quotation marks that the island looked less than traditional.





Anyhow, we climbed up the headland to a great lookout point and were treated to a meal of Trucha (fresh trout) - we picked each fish right out of the water!







The trout was cooked up by a woman who lived on the island in a mere 15 minutes and it was fantastic - some of the best fish I`ve ever eaten!







We finished the day on the top of a hill watching the sun go down....





The next day five of us (we were joined by Ade and Chloe who we´d met watching the sunset) caught the boat over to the North of Isla del Sol.





I could immediately see how it got its name - the sun was scorching and shone all day every day!  The island is about 8km from North to South. The others were going back the same day but I spent the next three days trekking to the top of 4,000m peaks, along picturesque beached coves and through lush green farmland.















My accommodation in the North cost about two pounds.  It wasn´t worth it.  Not many people stay in the North of the island - the only restaurant was closed so I was forced to eat five cheese empanadas and some Bolivian Watsits for dinner.  The second night more than made up for it - I stayed in a hostal right up on a ridge overlooking a beautiful bay.  There was also real food available - success!









I also took in some Inca ruins while trekking around.  There are, in order, Chincana (a labyrinth-like building), Escalinata (Incan steps) and Pilkokaina (a large meeting hall-type building).  There was also a large stone table which was quite impressive too (it probably has a special name but I´m going to christen it el stonio tableo).










The next destination was Puno, on the Peruvian side of the lake.  Yes, I´m now in Peru!!  Here I was able to see some real floating islands.  There are around 50 of them in all, supporting about 2,000 people.








We were shown how the islands are made - by joining together huge chunks of reed roots, covering them with fresh reeds and tying them to an anchor so that they don´t float away.  We also got to ride in a boat made only from reeds - I even got stuck in with a bit of rowing!  This time I ate some Cevice (fresh prawns cooked up with lime and spices), washed down with some Peruvian beer.








The next day I went to visit a ship called Yavari.  This ship is one of two that were built in England in 1861 by Thames Ironworks.  The most interesting fact is that the ships were dissembled into 2,766 pieces, so that they could be transported by mules over the Andes mountains, and were then reconstructed in 1870 when they finally reached their destination.









The ship had fallen into disrepair and, over the last seven years, has been reconditioned by a team from the UK.  Amongst other things, there is a letter from Prince Phllip expressing his interest that the ship be restored to its former glory!



After all that I´ve got some kind of cold.  I´ve attempted to combat it by buying lots of antibiotics (you can buy them as easily as Asprin here).  Hopefully I will improve because I am hiking the Inca Trail to the magnificent kingdom of Machu Picchu in a couple of days (whether I am sick or not!).

So, next stop is Cuzco and 6 days of hiking up to and around Machu Picchu.  Here are a few more pics since I last posted...

A stunning view from the highest peak on Isla del Sol (4,076m).


An interesting picture on a building in the North side.


Paintings on the side of the school on Isla del Sol - each is the flag of the local district with the provinces next to it.



Looking down on yet another beautiful bay.  I´m trying to look cool but really I´ve almost passed out due to the vertical track and high altitude.


A horse. And a bay.


Isla del Luna (island of the moon), where the Incas believe the moon was born.


This was the view I had as I was calmly munching breakfast.  I´m not sure if the bottom of the boat survived, but they got it in the water in the end.  The captain rewarded each of the guys with a glass of coke (the drink, not the powder).  If only labour in the UK was that cheap.  I might get them to build me a house.


Yeah, these are probably getting boring, but a beautiful bay, yes?


Copacabana from an Inca observation post.  The observation post was rubbish, but the view was nice.


Now we´re in Puno - a big cathedral in the main square


A blue building - not sure why, but I quite like it.


The funniest thing about this photo is that I actually paid real money to dress up like this.




Friday, March 23, 2012

The Death Road and cocaine - La Paz

It`s St. Patrick`s day.

I`ve discovered this fact because someone has just attacked me with neon paint, and the beer I`m drinking is bright green.  As if things can`t get more surreal, I`m asked if I`d like some cocaine with my beverage.

I`d been in La Paz for 24 hours and this was the 20th time I`d been offered some kind of white powder.  I was even driven past a `cocaine nightclub´ by a taxi driver hoping for some commission.  Don`t worry mum, I didn`t visit the club and I`m still clean.  I`ve been to a lot of areas of the world where drugs are popular/grown/cooked up - the Rif mountains in Morocco spring to mind - but I have to say I am surprised at how visible the cocaine scene is in La Paz.

Anyway, the main activity on the list was to jump on a mountain bike, point it in the direction of Death Road (or the Worlds Most Dangerous Road, either way it doesn`t sound good) and slam it down to the bottom. Preferably without falling off, crashing into the mountain or killing anyone else.


The road leads from La Paz to Coroico and is about 40 miles long.  The gravel track, only 2.5 meters wide in some places, is almost completely downhill - clinging to the mountains as it snakes its way down the valley.  Everywhere you look there are sheer cliff drops and there are no safely barriers to stop you from falling off.  It is legendary for its extreme danger and in 1995 the Inter-American Development Bank christened it the "World's Most Dangerous Road". In 2006 a new bypass opened and the road was closed to traffic - before that it is estimated that 200 to 300 travellers were killed yearly.  You regularly see crosses marking spots where vehicles have fallen.


There were 18 of us in all, we met up at the HQ and picked up our gear.  It included a rather colourful cycle jacket.  Wearing it was mandatory "so that we know whether a person belongs to our company if they fall off the side" the guide told us.  Fantastic.






We were driven up to 4,300m above sea level and given our bikes and tested them on an 8 mile stretch of asphalt road.  It was very steep and I found myself overtaking a few trucks.  I stopped doing this when, on one occasion, I came face to face with a truck overtaking around a corner.  I don`t think the highway code has reached Bolivia yet.  We arrived at the top of the Death Road proper and checked our bikes again.  The front brake on mine had stopped working so I got a new bike.  They all had numbers on them in order to tell who each bike belonged to.  My broken bike was number 54 - the new one was number 13.  Nice.



Bike number 13 lived up to its name - I was the first to stack it.  The road may be closed to traffic, but not donkeys.  I was racing a German guy and came flying round a corner to find an old woman and three donkeys in my path.  Instead of getting out the way, they just stood there as I skidded helplessly towards them.  Luckily for them, I was stopped by a large rock, went over the handlebars and landed in a heap at the foot of a particularly hairy donkey.  The old woman chuckled and wandered off.  Anyway - I was fine.




The bikes were really good and you can really get some speed up while going down.  The only problem is when the gravel road turns into something resembling a boulder field.  Steering doesn`t work in this case, those were the scary parts.  We traversed through waterfalls, mud puddles and streams - the scenery was magnificent.  All in all, we travelled 40 miles and descended over 3,000 meters in about 2.5 hours.  A truly exhilarating experience!  I was rewarded with a DVD and a t-shirt - now I don`t have to do any clothes washing for a couple more days - result!




Other than the Death Road, cocaine and partying, there isn`t really much to do in La Paz.  You used to be able to gain entry to the infamous San Pedro prison but the practice has been banned, as most people who visited did so to buy cocaine from the inmates.


Other than that I spent a day wandering around the city with some other backpackers.  We visited the witches market, where you can buy llama foetuses (a good luck charm that Bolivians bury under the porch of a new house) and various potions & medicines.


Next stop is Lake Titicaca to visit Copacabana (not the famous beach) and Isla del Sol, where the Incas believed the sun was born!  I`ll leave you with a picture of La Paz.