Monday, October 15, 2012

Copán. And angry people with machetes.

Just in case transportation in Central America isn't slow enough for the average person, the locals like to throw in the odd protest blockade every once in a while.

We'd left Utila, got a bus to San Pedro Sula, aiming to get to the town of Copan Ruinas by late afternoon. The first bus company told us that there were no buses today, due to a flood. This didn't sound likely as it was approximately 67°C in the shade and your average Central American bus driver would attempt to drive through a flood anyway.

The next company was running so we headed out. About 15 minutes from our destination, the traffic slowed. Then we stopped. We got off to see the largest tailback imaginable, with truck drivers settling into hammocks under their rigs and enterprising street vendors zipping around selling cashew nuts.

Our driver didn't know what the problem was but he wasn't gonna go any further. Not to be deterred, myself, Zack, Neal and Shane decided to walk to the site of the hold-up and try to get across. As we walked along in the scorching sun, we asked people what the situation was. Stories ranged from a big car crash to a teacher's strike - the continuing theme was that someone had been killed. As we made our way along the line of parked cars, the common story seemed to be that local farmers had blockaded the road and were standing there with machetes stopping anyone trying to get past. We had already walked 4km in the blazing sun so gambled on the fact that they wouldn't be interested in a load of backpackers.


We got to the blockade, which consisted of a load of trucks parked sideways on the road, to find about 50 people wandering around with machetes. However, instead of a hostile atmosphere, it was more like a carnival, with music and beers! No one paid us any attention as we sneaked past, catching a mini bus on the other side. The guy was relieved to have someone to transport and we even got a discount!

The town of Copán Ruinas is situated right next to the famous Mayan kingdom of Copán. The city flourished from 400AD to 800AD and was famous in the Mayan world for its intricate sculptures.


It was also ruled by kings with questionable names. Important rulers included Smoke Shell, 18 Rabbit, Moon Jaguar and my personal favourite, Smoke Monkey. The pic below is an alter with their images carved into the sides.


The ruins are extensive and have been excavated over the last 50 years. When archaeologists arrived, they found huge mounds covered with stones and trees. These turned out to be buildings. After years of painstaking reconstruction, mounds like this...


...could be restored to beautiful monuments like this:


The only non-ideal aspect of the day was that I had been struck down with some kind of killer ear infection from all the diving I'd done during the past week. This resulted in a constant feeling that someone was trying to drill into the side of my skull with a pneumatic drill. I also had to lie on my side for 15 minutes in the middle of the archaeological site to apply some ear drops. This was sightseeing at its finest.

Other highlights included the huge arena for the Mesoamerican ballgame, where players bashed a heavy ball up a steep slope with their knees and elbows, trying to score points by hitting certain objects.


The losing team would usually be sacrificed on the sacrificial stone that allowed their blood to swirl into the ground and please the gods. I think they should implement this system in the English Premier League.


Another was the Hieroglyphic Stairway, 62 steps with large sculptures depicting the kingdom's most important rulers.


The last highlight was a load of macaws. Because they are colourful.


Copán was my last Honduran destination and I've just arrived in Guatemala. I can't leave without giving a shout out to the Baleada, a traditional Honduran meal which I have practically lived on during my time in the country. A Baleada is a wheat flour tortilla, often quite thick, folded in half and filled with re-fried beans, cheese, cream and often scrambled egg. Not only are these babies delicious, they usually cost about 40p. I might quit my job and bring them back to the UK.


So I'm off to the Colonial city of Antigua for some Spanish Lessons. Here are some more Copán snaps.

Ruined palaces fighting against the jungle.


Even though I look happy in this picture, my head feels like it is about to explode.


Another large temple, built for Smoke Jaguar.


After centuries under the forest, some of the trees can't be removed as the buildings will fall down.


Another beautiful statue. This one depicts Smoke Shell.


A classic example of a Mayan archway. Apparently.


A jaguar used to ward off evil spirits.


Luckily, my ball team won and I was not executed. The other backpackers were not so lucky...


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